Care guide ยท Storage
How to Store Vintage Cameras and Lenses So They Keep Working
Most of the damage you'll find in old cameras wasn't caused by use. It was caused by storage: fungus grown in a damp closet, a battery left to leak for decades, a shutter that sat untouched until its lubricants turned to glue.
Whether you have one inherited camera or a full shelf, a few simple habits will keep your cameras and lenses in working order and protect what makes them collectible.
:The four enemies of stored cameras
Humidity
Encourages fungus on lenses, corrosion on metal and contacts, and mould on leather and cloth.
Heat
Accelerates lubricant migration, foam breakdown and the drying of materials. Sun through a window does the same.
Batteries
Old cells leak and corrode contacts and wiring, often the worst damage you'll find in an otherwise good camera.
Neglect
Mechanisms that never move tend to stiffen. Dust settles everywhere.
Getting humidity right
Fungus needs moisture and still air. Many collectors aim for a moderate relative humidity, commonly somewhere around 40 to 50 percent. Too dry and leather, some adhesives and natural materials may suffer; too damp and fungus becomes likely. The key is to measure: an inexpensive digital hygrometer turns guesswork into a number.
Storage options
| Option | Good for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Open shelf in a living area | Displays, cameras in use | Usually fine in a stable, climate-controlled room; dust regularly |
| Closed cabinet with glass doors | Displays, collections | Reduces dust; check humidity inside |
| Airtight box with silica gel | Lenses, small collections | Effective; monitor and recharge the gel |
| Electronic dry cabinet | Larger collections, humid climates | Holds a set humidity; the most hands-off option |
| Attic, basement, garage | Nothing valuable | Temperature and humidity swings; avoid |
In a humid climate, a dry cabinet or sealed boxes with desiccant are usually worth it. In a dry, climate-controlled home, an open shelf away from heat and sun may be enough.
Preparing a camera for storage
- Remove the battery. Every time, even if the camera is "only going in the cupboard for a while".
- Remove film. Develop or discard any roll inside.
- Release the shutter so springs aren't left under tension (check the manual for your model).
- Set focus to infinity and the aperture wide open, which many people prefer for lenses at rest.
- Fit caps to lenses and body openings to keep out dust.
- Clean the outside gently with a blower and soft brush. Remove fingerprints from glass with lens tissue.
- Store the camera and its case side by side, rather than sealed inside the case, in damp conditions.
What not to do
- Don't store cameras in plastic bags in a damp room. Trapped moisture has nowhere to go.
- Don't spray lubricants into a stiff shutter or focusing ring. Oil migrates onto blades and glass and creates the very problems a CLA is meant to fix.
- Don't leave cameras on a sunny windowsill, even for display. Heat and light are hard on finishes, foam and film left inside.
- Don't stack cameras on top of one another, where knobs, levers and lens elements can be pressed or scratched.
Exercise your cameras
Mechanical cameras tend to stay healthier when they move. Every so often, take each camera down and:
- Fire the shutter through all its speeds a few times, including the slow ones.
- Work the aperture ring and stop-down lever.
- Turn the focusing ring through its full range.
- Operate the self-timer if it has one.
- Check the light seals and look through the lens with a flashlight.
It's also the best moment to spot fungus early, before it etches anything.
Displaying a collection
Displays are part of the pleasure of collecting. A few precautions keep displayed cameras safe:
- Keep displays out of direct sunlight, which fades finishes and leather and heats the camera.
- Avoid shelves on outside walls or above radiators, where temperature and condensation vary.
- Use closed glass cabinets for dust control, and check humidity inside them.
- Rotate cameras between the display and storage, and exercise them as you do.
Caring for leather, covering and accessories
Original cases, straps, boxes and manuals all count toward completeness for collectors. Store manuals and boxes flat, away from damp, in archival sleeves or acid-free boxes if they're fragile. Be conservative with leather and camera covering: avoid applying products without testing on a hidden area first, and if in doubt, leave it alone. On collectible cameras, originality usually matters more than shine.
Storing lenses separately
Interchangeable lenses deserve the same care as bodies, and sometimes more, because fungus on glass is the damage that's hardest to undo. Store lenses with both caps on, upright or lying flat in a padded box, never rolling loose in a drawer. If you keep several lenses in a sealed container with desiccant, check the hygrometer every few weeks at first so you learn how quickly the gel saturates in your home.
Keep any lens with known fungus apart from your clean glass until it has been dealt with. Many collectors do this as a precaution, even though fungus spores are present almost everywhere already. The real protection is the same as for everything else: moderate humidity, moving air and regular use.
Filters, lens hoods and adapters are worth storing with the lens they belong to. Loose accessories go missing, and for collectors a matching original hood or cap can make a lens more complete.
Moving and shipping cameras
If you're moving house or posting a camera, pack it so nothing can shift. Remove lenses from bodies and cap both, wrap each item separately, and pad the box on all sides. Release the shutter, remove batteries and film, and set focus to infinity so a lens isn't under strain. Avoid leaving cameras in a hot car or an unheated storage unit, where temperature and humidity can swing sharply. When a camera arrives somewhere colder or warmer, let it reach room temperature inside its packaging before you unwrap it, to avoid condensation forming on and inside the glass.
Found an old camera in storage?
If you've just pulled a camera out of an attic or a relative's closet:
- Remove any battery and check for corrosion.
- Check for film inside before opening the back; if there's a roll, rewind it if you can or open the back only in the dark.
- Inspect the lens with a flashlight for fungus and haze.
- Let it acclimatise to room temperature before firing anything.
- Exercise mechanisms gently. If anything is stiff or stuck, don't force it.
Then identify it, and if you're curious what it might be worth, research completed sales of matching examples rather than trusting asking prices.
The bottom line
For most collectors, batteries out, moderate humidity, airflow and regular exercise will prevent nearly all of the damage that ruins stored cameras. Measure humidity rather than guessing, and handle collectible cameras conservatively.
Frequently asked questions
What humidity should I store cameras at?
Many collectors aim for a moderate relative humidity, commonly somewhere around 40 to 50 percent, avoiding both damp and very dry conditions. Use a hygrometer to measure it rather than guessing, and follow guidance from the manufacturer or a conservator for especially valuable items.
Should I store a camera with the shutter cocked?
Many collectors and repairers advise storing mechanical cameras with the shutter released to avoid keeping springs under tension for long periods. Check the manual for your camera, as some designs have specific recommendations.
Are original leather cases bad for cameras?
Not in themselves, and they matter for completeness. But old leather can hold moisture, and a closed case in a damp room can encourage fungus. Many collectors store the camera and case side by side and use the case for display or carrying.
Do silica gel packs help?
Yes, in a closed container they can help keep humidity down. Silica gel saturates over time, so pair it with a hygrometer, and recharge or replace it as instructed by the manufacturer. Don't let humidity drop too far.